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Volume 88 | May 2012
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Durian, Tuan Tapak dan
Sabtu, 14 Februari 2009 | 10:49:43
Durian, Tuan Tapak dan Suaribe
by. Lina Naibaho
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Our Hiline transport running fast, leaving all the busy activities of Medan town during sunset. Last Friday on July 4, yeah, we wanted to go to westcoast of Aceh. Our mission for this time is to campaign of conservation of orang utan (Pongo abelii) habitat. The rumor said that in the westcoast of Aceh was found 70% of Indonesian orang utan populations are near to extinction. Of course, as a forestry student of university, I have spiritual tie to the above problem. Moreover, my conservation subject in the lecture is nothing compared to direct observation in the field. This trip was assigned by local NGO based in Medan. I am not alone, we are four personnel. Though this is not a pleasure trip, but for those who like the beach as I am, the coastal area of west Aceh is very promising. Long time before, I have a picture in my mind about the warm and strong the sea wave of southwest Aceh. Aceh Singkil. Hi, finally we arrived at the last end of western coast. From Medan, the regency of Aceh Singkil is the first we met in the westcoast of Aceh. Take your time to see the port. You could satisfy your fishing hobby while enjoying the atmosphere of the pier. But I know, beaches in Singkil not as good as the beaches in northern part. The people said that the beaches of Singkil always flooded with water, it is not so good and not well managed. May be, they all busy with oil palm plantation. So far, the situation is similar to other villages in Sumatera. The plantation area and local community are dominated by Javanese tribe. Moreover the climate condition is not different from Medan. But wait, not all Aceh Singkil territory is flat. Here we could enjoy durian (Durio zibethinus) on simple divan on the roadside belongs to the durian seller. There, fresh durian are haversted from the well maintained trees. The price is standard from Rp 15,000 to Rp 20,000 per fruit depend on its size. No doubt for the taste quality, a must try! Daniel Liv wrote in his book, Jakarta Inside Out, Sumatera durian is the most delicious among other durians in Asia. Usually, the durian seller here also sells lemang (sticky rice cooked in bamboo tube). It is really strange, but eat durian with lemang is very nice. One of our friends is trying it. He alone, could eat up lemang with the size of adult’s arm. He said not to take dinner anymore. This lemang has replaced rice. In regard to campaign mission, here first we finish our all duty before going to next destination. We have office here. For those who want to make similar trip don’t worry, because there are many simple accommodation available along the road. All right, I forgot to tell you the day we have passed, and then we went on to next destination. Campaign coordinator said that we will continue our campaign activity in Naganraya. About 12-13 hours by car. We will pass through Tapaktuan. It is my habit to learn about information of good tourist objects before going to destination point. My spirit raised up to find the interesting information about Tapaktuan. No idea, why we choose to begin our trip in the late afternoon. May be in order to save the time or to avoid hot climate en route or easy to stop at stalls along the roadside. Our Hiline car now drives on the curve roads but the road not extreme as road of Medan–Aceh Singkil, except the narrow size is remain the same. When I opened my eyes from torturing head ache, the day was dark. We arrived at Tapaktuan. Through the door screen, I was trying to adapt the outside atmosphere while enjoying the breeze from the beach which entering the car window. Coconut trees are growing along the beachside. Some locations on the beach are favorite place for fishing, but bring along your fishing equipment with you. Besides fishing, other famous tourist object in Tapaktuan is to see the giant footprint on huge stone called Tuan Tapak. According to a legend, along time ago there was a couple of bad dragon which is not able to have a baby. And also there was a good dragon that felt lonesome. One day, the good dragon found a female baby in the sea so that the good dragon was no longer lonesome. The good dragon raised the baby until growing up to be a beautiful girl. Because she was so beautiful, many young boys were dreaming to own the girl. Until one day, there was a prince from oversea came to propose the girl, but she refused it. The news of refusal on proposal of handsome and very rich prince was heard by a couple of the bad dragon. They wanted to have the girl. So they kidnapped the girl from the good dragon. The good dragon was so sad and then pray and asking a help from the supernatural man, Tuan Tapak. Upon hearing the pray from the dragon, Tuan Tapak went to the sea to take the girl back. When heading to the sea, the left foot of Tuan Tapak stepped on the huge stone. The footprint can be seen in the tourist object Tuan Tapak. The footprint about one meter in length and 75 meters in width. Imagine how big the size of Tuan Tapak is. Apart from it, the footprint of his right leg can be found inside the water about 200-250 meters away from the left footprint. It was said that the hat and magic stick of Tuan Tapak lost in the sea when fighting against the bad dragon. Now, the people believe that the hat and stick changed into coral in which abundant of fish live. Although the coral shaped like hat and stick located far in the middle but people like to go there for fishing because a lot fish around it. You may believe or not about the story of Tuan Tapak, but during tsunami a few years ago, when the sea water dropped one kilometer away, people could see the hat and stick and the right footprint as well. When visiting Tapak Tuan, please go to the port. Tourist object of Tuan Tapak is very near from the port. We stopped to find our dinner as well as accommodation. Luckily we found the comfortable and cheap accommodation as we expected. Accommodation is so simple. We hire a room with two small beds plus one table and equipped with mosquito coil. It is so funny, in the electric and internet era, the mosquito coil is still being used in accommodation. Yah, it does not matter. But the cordiality of the accommodation owner will make everyone always remember the place again. Early in the morning, Mr. Ruslan, the name of accommodation owner, was waiting for us in the verandah, and his wife serving us with hot dinks. Ruslan accompanied us to talk while watching TV. His Acehnese accent is very strong. The Aceh population is very dominant here. On our departure, smile and flagging hand was given by the Aceh which probably meant thanks and had pleasant stay in Aceh. Again, besides doing campaign mission, before arrival at destination, the team has to prepare the administration works and made lobby to government office. Finnaly we arrived at Naganraya (formerly under the territory of Meulaboh administration) in the middle of day. Not many tourist objects in Naganraya, but we have representative office there and rest for a while. So, if you want to make a pleasure, please proceed to Meulaboh about 45 minutes drive. Here you can find beautiful beach and the sunset panorama. If photography is your hobby, don’t ever miss the sunset moment in port of Meulaboh. After having finished your photography, please go fishing. Before, prepare your own fishing equipment and buy fish bait. Usually, for those who want to fish could buy prawn for fish bait costs about Rp 8.000 per kg in Meulaboh market. Well, there a lot beach in Meulaboh. Many of the beaches are abandoned, particularly after tsunami many of the beaches spoiled and now under improvement. We had opportunity to visit Suariabe beach only. Formerly in Aceh, pantai was called “suariabe”. There is Suriabe One, Suriabe Two, and Suriabe Three. The people did not give any names to the beach because there are so many beaches in Meulaboh. They just called “Suriabe” instead of the “pantai”. In Aceh dialect, sua means beach, and ribe means thousands. To call one beach to the other ones they used nominal number. Nowadays only the first until the third beach having names Suriabe One, Suriabe Two, and Suriabe Three. These time not only the campaign members joining for a pleasure. Everybody wanted to go for a pleasure. Due to road to Suariabe Beach was under renovation, despite it was uncomfortable to the beach, yup I won’t miss it. It seem that Suriabe is improving to be better. The smell of the sea welcoming us. Suariabe is blue water, blue sky, breaking waves, and a spread of white soft sand. I guarantee, everyone will fall in love with Suariabe. We ordered fresh coconut water. Sitting relax in any coastal area while drinking young coconut water became the most pleasant thing. Just sit down on the small seat under the leafroof of coconut tree. Just a coincidence, on the rooftop The Red and White flag was waving. The flag has been raised in the sand of Suariabe since a long time. Hah, in fact Aceh is very Indonesian. The day was still bright when we left Suaribe. The salt water air blowing with the winds stick to my skin as if the water and wind in Suariabe did not permit us to leave. Suariabe is the beautiful beach in Aceh land, in Sumatera Island. Seen from any other angle, Sumatera Island remains beautiful and exotic.
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